Something fishy

There’s more to the island of Phu Quoc than fish sauce…

30.10.2011 - 05.11.2011 30 °C
View Just a big holiday on ClareAndTom's travel map.

In Vietnamese circles, the island of Phu Quoc to the south of Vietnam is known for its peppercorns, fish sauce factories, pearl farms and Coconut Prison. But beyond that it is an island with sweeping stretches of deserted, undeveloped beaches, red dirt roads, and shanty fishing villages where locals make a living catching and drying fish. We spent our last week in the country exploring it.

We based ourselves in the town of Duong Dong, and spent a few days enjoying the beach, great sunsets and the night seafood market.

_{Phu Quoc is one of the few places in Vietnam where you can watch the sun set over the sea. We enjoyed the displays with a beer from the roof of our hotel}

_{There was a huge array of cheap, fresh seafood on sale at the night market}

_{We tried sea urchin, slipper lobster, swimmer crabs and giant prawns}

Neither of us have any experience riding motorbikes, but this isn’t a problem in Vietnam where you seemingly don’t need any, let alone a licence. We hired a scooter and, wobbling only slightly, set off at a steady pace to explore remote beaches and sleepy villages.

_{This was one of the better roads on the island}

_{Tom became proficient enough at riding the scooter that we were able to take photos of ourselves on the move}

_{First stop was Tranh Stream, which we shared with picnicking Vietnamese, who were enjoying beers in the shade}

_{Sao Beach, said to be the most beautiful on the island – a Robinson Crusoe-esque beach fringed with palm trees}

_{We had a seafood lunch with the waves lapping at our feet}

_{The island had a laid-back feel, with cows grazing by the roadside}

_{The fishing village of Cua Can}

_{The main ‘road’ to reach the north of the island. The bridge was so rickety that Clare got off the bike and walked across}

_{The crystal clear waters at Vung Beach – several kilometres of sand which we had to ourselves}

_{People make a living drying fish}

_{There were large collections of fish drying at the roadside}

_{At the very north of the island, where we were closer to Cambodia than mainland Vietnam, we took a wrong turn and were mocked by some children}

_{Dai Beach – another huge stretch of sand that we didn’t have to share with anyone}

_{Returning back to Duong Dong on a proper tarmac road, we still encountered road hazards}

_{The main road passes through the market. It was challenging to ride the scooter through this melee}

_{Fishing boats in Duong Dong harbour}

_{Kids cycling home from school}

For our last few days on the island we transferred to a hippyish retreat in the middle of nowhere. We had our own hut and enjoyed great communal evening meals. During the day we lazed on nearby beaches.